A Closed, Sealed Crawlspace – What a Really Bad Idea

First, it might be quite costly (several thousands of dollars). Second, and much more importantly, the sealing of a crawlspace is likely to degrade the IAQ (Indoor Air Quality) in your living space.

Rather than sealing a crawl space and creating an IAQ problem in the home’s living space, there are less expensive methods to manage crawl space humidity. In the United States, the number of those with allergies is rising about 25% per decade, and asthma cases alone have doubled in the last 20 years.

The rise in those having allergies is more common in developed countries, and it is suggested there “must be something in modern, urban life that promotes allergy”. Some studies indicate a direct link to the increase in air conditioning and tighter homes. People may save a hundred dollars per year in energy, yet spend thousands on medication and life style change, so, there is no question that the home’s IAQ is, by far, the overriding, single most important issue.

Proponents of sealing and not ventilating a crawl space have stated , “venting a crawl space will either add moisture to, or remove moisture from, a crawlspace depending on the moisture content of the ventilation air compared to the desired conditions of the crawl space. Venting with dry air reduces the moisture levels in the crawl space, while venting with moist air contributes moisture”. In this respect, such proponents are absolutely right-on correct!

So, even though it might cost a homeowner $6000-$8000, they suggest a closed, sealed crawl space because the possibility of venting with moist air can make the crawl space wetter.

An optimum alternative that might achieve the best outcome could be to ventilate the crawl space but with a ventilation strategy that would know how much water vapor is in the outdoor air and know how much water vapor is in the crawl space air. Armed with that knowledge the ventilator will be able to make an informed decision whether or not ventilation is going to be helpful or hurtful.

It is evident a strategy like this would permit a crawl space to be ventilated, to dilute and replace stagnant air, odors and gases such as radon, yet not bring in wetter air into the crawl space. A strategy like this will be more effective than other ventilation strategies (like a timer or dehumidistat) because it is selective about not bringing in wetter outdoor air, whereas the timer or dehumidistat is not selective.

Returning to the question of sealing the crawl space and using a dehumidifier to control moisture, there is no question that sealing a crawl space and using a sizable dehumidifier will reduce humidity in the crawl space, but, if sealing the crawl space can compromise the home’s IAQ, you ought to reconsider.

Here’s why.

1. Even if you are able to seal the crawl space well, you will need a sizable dehumidifier. It will need to be set well below a mold threshold limit because other surfaces may be colder. The lower setting is needed to prevent those colder surfaces from exceeding the mold threshold in the now stagnant crawl space.

2. A dehumidifier mentioned in article requires 30 times the power of other technologies.

3. A dehumidifier will need occasional maintenance.

4. When sealing walls and piers, how do you seal completely without creating a hidden path for termites? It means, of course, you can’t completely seal it.

5: The crawl space has become a stagnant area, which, of course, is never cleaned, so odors and gases will be there and they will migrate into the living space of the home.

6: Under the vapor barrier it is always 100% relative humidity, so mold and bacteria is going to grow. And the mold and bacteria spores will migrate into the home.

With the home IAQ in mind, it becomes apparent that some sort of ventilation is needed in a crawl space. The ICC code for the usual passive ventilation setup required one sqft of opening for each 150 sqft of crawl space. Further, the ICC code stated that if a vapor barrier was installed over the ground surface only 10% of the venting area was required (ICC 1804.6.3.1). This would mean that only 1 sqft of opening would be needed for a 1500sqft of crawl space. Clearly this code wasn’t working, so the ventilation rate was arbitrarily increased, and, now, today some state codes recognize the strategy of comparing inside/outside water vapor.

So, with IAQ being so important, we can define our goal in a crawl space project: remove/replace stagnant crawl space air and extract moisture from the wood mass in the crawl space. This makes a case for mechanical equipment.

Dilution and replacement of crawl space air with fresh, outdoor air is easily understood, but how do you extract moisture from the wood mass in the crawl space? You must reduce the vapor pressure at the surface of the wood, and you may do this by either of two ways. One is by dehumidification, another is to blow air across the wood’s surface, better yet, blow drier air across the wood’s surface.

So let’s get down to the quick of things. From the home’s IAQ perspective you should ventilate your crawl space, but using a dehumidifier and venting would be like setting a dehumidifier out on your front lawn, and then paying the electric bills.

A better system would use an intelligent mechanical ventilation system that, (1) keeps the crawl space closed during unfavorable conditions, (2) opens whenever the outdoor air water vapor content will lower humidity in the crawl space, (3) moves a lot of the lower humidity air to extract moisture from the wood mass. The result is, that as you are diluting & replacing stagnant odors & gases, and radon in the crawl space with fresh, outdoor air, you are also extracting moisture from the wood mass.

Further, an intelligent system might perform other functions, such as to not ventilate when it’s freezing outside, and, if the crawl space gets too dry, the ventilator could also automatically reverse its strategy to pump moisture into the crawl space to further stabilize wood floors by maintaining the wood in an acceptable range.

Home Inspector Questions – Top 10 Questions to Ask When Buying Your Dream Home

First and foremost, have your realtor give you at least 3 names of reputable inspectors that he/she has used in the past. With names in tow, it is now time to do your due diligence to find the perfect home inspector for you.

Before you begin, keep in mind that the kind of home you purchased will also help determine the questions you want to ask your inspector when you call them.

How old is the house? Is it historical? Has it been renovated? In what area is it?

Here are some of the questions you should ask the inspector before you hire him.

1. Are you licensed? If the home inspector isn’t licensed, don’t bother asking more questions. This is an immediate sign not to employ this contractor. Please make sure they are licensed. Also ask if they are a member of a professional home inspector association and how long. Don’t be afraid to ask for credentials.

2. How long have you been in business? All inspectors should provide a work history. Newer inspectors can be very knowledgeable and may even bring another inspector to the walk through.

3. What areas have you worked in the most? Make sure the inspector is familiar with the residential homes in your area.

4. Do you specialize in any particular type of house? This refers to residential or commercial real estate. Since you’re purchasing a new home, make sure the inspector is familiar and has experience with residential home.

5. Is a termite inspection included? Do you do it yourself or do you bring in a termite inspector? The home inspector should be able to tell you if your home has termite damage or not. He can then refer you to a professional termite exterminator. The home inspector does not handle the termite inspection.

6. Do you do a radon test and can you explain to me what that is? Yes, a home inspector will run a radon test and provide you with results when the test is complete. This usually last up to 1 to 2 days.

7. Do I need to be present during the inspection? Do not miss the opportunity to be present at this home inspection. This is valuable information you need when purchasing your home.

8. How much do you charge? Most home inspectors do charge a fee for services. The fee is based primarily on the location of the home as well as the size. A basic fee should range from $200 to $500

9. Do you take pictures during the inspection? It is very important to make sure you have camera handy during your walk through. Take as much pictures as you want. These pictures may come in handy when you resell them home in the future.

Is Visqueen Right For Your Project?

Visqueen has become the generic name for plastic sheeting, just as Kleenex has become the generic name for tissue. When someone asks for Visqueen, they are referring to a lesser grade of plastic sheeting. The plastic sheeting known as Visqueen has become a generic name for Construction and Agricultural Grade Polyethylene sheeting (C&A film)? Did you know that Visqueen is actually a company in the UK? C&A film contains up to 25% post consumer recycled content, and is made from the least expensive resins available at any given time. While it is excellent for use in many projects, we do not feel it is ideal for any use that requires sustained strenght such as a tarp or for use as a vapor/moisture barrier or retarder. Our choice is to recommend engineered films that are designed for this purpose, to block as much of the moisture, radon, methane and VOC’s as possible. On a microscopic level, the cell structure of the plastic films/liners varies. For liners that are going to be used to block deadly gases such as Radon, you want to insure that you get a liner that has a tight cell structure.

The engineered films are designed to last forever buried in the soil, where C&A film often completely breaks down within a couple of years. Have you ever dug up some old black plastic? Remember how torn and crusty it was?

It’s important that today’s vapor/moisture barriers or retarders should pass the ASTM E1745 Class A, B and C (standard for underslab vapor retarders in contact with soil or granular fill), especially since most homeowner’s insurance coverage for mold is very limited today. Builders are experiencing a much higher level of mold related repair costs and lawsuits since the time when most insurance companies changed their mold coverage to active leaks only.

Ask yourself how long the plastic needs to last. Does it need to hold up in the sun, high winds, or snow? Does is need to be fire retardant? Do you want string (Scrim) reinforced or not and why? How thick should the film be for your job? Do you want it to be padded, or self-adhesive? Is it going to be used in a high heat or humidity climate?
Learn about your choices for your job, and make an informed choice.

Polonium – 210 – The Smoking Gun

The deafening silence about Polonium-210 from organizations such as Cancer Research UK has prompted me to have another think about a Very Strange Thing that happened six months ago. More on that in a moment but first we need to take a look at the lucrative and ever expanding chemical fertilizer industry.

The rock mineral apatite, which US farmers are by law obliged to use in the form of phosphate fertilizer, contains radon. One of the resulting products of radon decay is polonium-210, a radioactive substance which ends up on the fine hairs of the tobacco plant and is subsequently inhaled by smokers. Not naturally occurring in tobacco, but it is a deliberately added by-product of the phosphate mining industry.

Any of the many substances found in cigarette smoke can be shown to cause poor health and lead to disease, but laboratory trials consistently and repeatedly demonstrate that the only component that causes lung cancer tumours is polonium-210. The tobacco industry has been fully aware since the 1960′s that cigarettes contain significant levels of polonium-210.

Prior to 1930 and the advent of chemical fertilizers lung cancer was virtually unknown whereas today the incidence is greater than that for heart disease. Between 1938 and 1960, the level of polonium-210 in US grown tobacco tripled as the use of chemical fertilizers increased. The US Surgeon General, C Everett Koop is on record in 1990 stating publicly that tobacco radiation is probably responsible for 90% of tobacco-related cancer.

An awkward discrepancy exists in explaining the increased lung cancer rate from 4 per 100,000 in 1930 to 72 per 100,000 today and rising, despite the 20 percent reduction in tobacco use.

There are four thousand or so substances variously found in different brands of cigarettes. Some of them are added and some occur as a result of burning but the general public is not allowed to know what is added to tobacco despite a 1984 law obliging cigarette manufacturers to release this information.

Health Authority departments may request a list of additives but are forbidden to show this to anyone else.

In December 2006 an anti-smoking campaign funded by the UK Department of Health and promoted by Cancer Research UK was to be shown as a series of advertisements on national television. Programmed to run concurrently with a targeted display of posters across the country and the distribution of beer mats in bar venues, it was suddenly and inexplicably curtailed. Someone made a decision to drop all mention of polonium-210 but to proceed with the remaining material. Why?

When questioned the Department of Health’s response was ‘It would be inappropriate’.

The remaining ads have hard-hitting messages about the dangers of cigarette smoke and the poisonous substances it contains

Department of Health spokeswoman

We are surely entitled to ask why the Department of Health, without a valid explanation would think it ‘inappropriate’ to share information about the single most deadly substance to be found in cigarette smoke.

Could it be that the hitherto rarely mentioned and largely unheard of, but highly radioactive polonium-210 had overnight become worldwide headline news? The graphic illustrations of a painfully slow death by polonium-210 poisoning of the unfortunate Mr Alexander Litvinenko in London was the number one news item in the UK for several days. Would the passive information fed television audience of millions be able to make the connection between the inexorable rise in lung cancer and the polonium-210 content in cigarettes?

Were the tobacco industry chiefs quaking in their boots? Maybe they were – but only for a moment or two. Because our compliant Department of Health obliged and in collaboration with Cancer Research UK deleted all mention of the offending word ‘polonium-210′ from their upcoming anti-smoking campaign.

When it Rains it Pours – Money For Job Seekers Who Learn Basement Waterproofing Skills

For recession-weary job seekers or other people ready for a career change, here’s a hint: There has always been a shortage of skilled basement waterproofing contractors. The best in the business often have long waiting lists following a rain storm. This leaves millions of homeowners nationwide searching for someone who might help repair leaky concrete cracks and drain tile problems. When it rains it pours dollars for those unemployed workers who take to heart that old adage, go where the money is.

But don’t take my word for it. Begin by taking a casual survey of friends, family, business acquaintances and neighbors. Ask each of them if they believe they might benefit from a basement inspection. If they ask why, simply say that most homes have indoor air quality problems they are not even aware of; contamination by invisible radon gas or airborne mold spores are the cause of a long list of chronic respiratory heath issues. The solution is to rid that damp, dark basement of moisture.

Now don’t be surprised if one or two debate you. Every neighborhood has a couple know-it-alls. So if anyone doubts the veracity of your information, or they insist that all basements have a little water, ask this question: Where does 50 percent of the air we breathe in our homes originate?

They won’t know the answer. Only trained basement waterproofing contractors and crawl space sealing and installation professionals have this information. Don’t toy with them, and don’t be smug. But before you give the correct answer you might add, “By any chance is someone in your home suffering from nasal and sinus congestion, coughing, wheezing, sore throat, headaches, fatigue or eye irritation? Oh, and do you have musty odors in the basement?”

You may think I’m training you to be a physician, not a basement waterproofing expert. I’m pushing the issue because most homeowners do not understand how critical a dry basement is to their health and safety. Also, if you provide something valuable that is free, these people might begin to trust you. After all, would you kick someone out of your basement if he could actually help you fix a water seepage or smelly odor problem? No. And neither will your friends and neighbors, because suddenly you’re an expert. You know a little more than they know. And your information could be enormously helpful.

By the way, the correct answer to my question is the basement, where critters and insects and natural but poisonous gases like radon enter the home.

Now if you’ve done a good job with your survey, you might get a few requests to fix basements. Your first jobs in a new field! There is just one problem. Do you know how to waterproof a basement?

No problem. I can teach you how. Go to my website and watch free study course videos. Learning this task should not be a great challenge for people already in the trades. After you have completed your education, which won’t take long, grab a starter-kit and before you know it, you’ll have money in your pocket.

If you have done a good job, don’t be surprised if friends, family, business acquaintances and neighbors give your name to their friends. In fact, ask them to do so – it’s free marketing.

Keep improving your sales skills, and you’ll have more work than you’ll know what to do with. Remember, there is a shortage of basement waterproofing contractors nationwide. Go where the money is and claim your piece of the market.

Is There an Effective Well Water Filter?

Bringing well water into your house puts lots of responsibility on the home owner. With the number of contaminants that may be in the water supply it is a necessity to do comprehensive research on well water filters.

The first step before you go out and look at any well water filters is to get a chemical analysis done on your water. This is easily done by taking a water sample down to the nearest certified water testing laboratory in your area. Just by searching on the internet you can find your state certification officer by visiting the U.S. EPA Web site.

If you’re lucky, in some areas your local health department may do the testing for free. Now armed with information you can now make some informed decisions about well water filters.

One of the most common naturally occurring kinds of pollution found in well water were organisms such as viruses, bacteria and other microorganisms. The good news is that these creatures only typically occur after flooding and during the spring runoff. So they are not present in the well water throughout the year

The bad news is that these organism can cause a variety of physical illnesses. Diarrhea and nausea are the most typical reactions that a person drinking one of these microorganisms would have. The effects are usually short lived but quite acute.

To remove these microorganisms, it’s important to have a well water filter that uses a sub micron filter for removing these and other microscopic organisms that may be in the well. It’s hard to believe but another commonly occurring element in the water supply is radon. Radon is a by product of decaying uranium. This element occurs as a gas but some areas may find this in their well water.

There is no need to panic if radon does turn up in the water supply. The main concern if it is inhaled into the lungs. A carbon based water filter is the simplest solution for removing this substance from the water supply.

So you can see that by simply investigating in systems that have both a sub micron and carbon based filters associated with them, you will be assured of purchasing an effective filtration system.

What Must be Disclosed in a Real Estate Transaction?

On the surface, disclosure might seem very basic. A potential buyer is entitled to know when the house was originally built, what materials the roof is made out of and how many square feet the house and property are. Though these are all important facts to know regarding your purchase of a home, there is much more information that must be disclosed.

A buyer is entitled to seller disclosures, including material facts, deaths on the property and recent repairs. In addition, there are Property Disclosure Statements required by law in most states. This is a statement the seller must complete. In California, the Property Disclosure Statement is required by Civil Code and is called a Transfer Disclosure Statement.

A home buyer is also entitled to paperwork called he HUD-1. This is a settlement statement showing line item charges. The HUD-1 was created in an effort to simplify the disclosure of closing costs and it does so line by line so that the parties to the transaction are aware of all charges.

There should be a disclosure regarding any homeowner’ association before your client makes the purchase. Aside from the disclosure, help your client ask the right questions, such as what the association’s policies are and how stable they are financially.

There is also a Preliminary Title Report or Title Commitment, which should contain any information regarding easements. In the event that anyone plans to put a pool in the back yard, it is important that you find out about any easements or rights of way, as an easement can stop the plans to build the pool, a fence, and various other additions.

In addition, it is important that any covenants, conditions and restrictions (CC&Rs) be disclosed. CC&Rs are a matter of public record and affect the way the property can be used. It is important that these be researched and that you are aware of the ramifications regarding the house/property you are planning to purchase.

Another group of disclosures involve protecting you from various substances and hazards. There is a lead-based paint disclosure, which gives the buyer 10 days to inspect for lead-based paint unless both parties agree to waive this right. Lead-based paint was banned in 1978; however, even though a property was built after 1978 does not mean that it is lead-free.

Two other disclosures that are important are the radon gas test and toxic mold test. Radon gas has been linked to deaths from cancer and can contaminate the property’s water sources. There are websites that describe radon testing in depth and explain how and why the test should be conducted. Toxic mold is another very important matter. Toxic mold is insidious – it is often not seen and there is not always an odor to it. Testing is usually simple and reasonably inexpensive. It is extremely important that these tests be performed and disclosed, since some issues with mold can be excluded from your homeowner’s insurance policy, and even worse, pre-existing mold can keep you from getting homeowner’s insurance in many cases.

Three more items that should be disclosed are termite inspections, powder post beetle inspections and fumigation tent facts. Termite inspections are a normal part of the process of buying a home. Power post beetles are not as well known. These are a specific type of beetle that eats wood. It is important to get the information about termite and post beetle inspections and how to inspect for damage before the deal is finalized.

The last item is extremely important. Natural Hazard reports disclose various conditions that could affect the property, such as whether the property is subject to shifting sands, fires, flooding or lies on a fault line. It is important to be aware of all this information before you finalize the purchase.

Whether you are closing a conventional sale or a short sale, make sure you have the reports and information you need to make a good decision that will put money in your pocket rather than cost you expenses that can turn a good moneymaking deal into an unnecessary loss.

Family & Friends Walk to Honor a Young Woman’s Fight Against Cancer

When her children’s babysitter was diagnosed with a rare form of lung cancer in January of this year, Shannon Draisey knew she had to help. Since Cheryl enjoyed walking, a walk-a-thon was a fitting event and so one was planned to raise money for her cancer treatment.

Unfortunately Cheryl’s condition worsened rather quickly and she passed away on March 11th. However plans continued for the walk in her honor and the name was changed to the 1st Annual Memory March for Markley 2 Mile Run/Walk.

Everyone was welcome to come help celebrate Cheryl’s life, support her family and raise awareness about lung cancer. Besides walkers there were also runners, moms with strollers, kids on bikes and grandparents who participated.

Shannon said, “I used the information from Step by Step Fundraising to assist me in sending out letters to business/organizations asking for their support as a sponsor, in newspaper ads and in the sponsor kit the I created for my walk.”

The walk was April 30, 2005 at a local park. Each participant received a t-shirt with the event date and a picture of Cheryl. Especially since many of the participants were friends or family, the t-shirts were greatly appreciated. Over 100 people attended the walk, and after expenses the event raised $3600 for the family.

There was a special kickoff ceremony with a prayer and balloon release. The balloons were in lavender, which is the general cancer awareness color and ivory/clear, the lung cancer awareness color.

Since the walk was to benefit an individual and not a registered non profit organization, donors were not allowed to consider contributions as tax deductible. However, Shannon didn’t find this to be too much of a problem and had many people including businesses donate money, goods and services.

Shannon sent out approximately 200 letters to local business and organizations which resulted in 28 sponsors. Some of them were monetary and some contributed water, the sign for the walk, a gator to get around the park in, and other supplies.

“I would have to say personal friends of Cheryl made the walk a success. With over 100 people that showed up, all of them knew Cheryl and wanted to help. But by putting an ad in our local newspaper weekly for a month prior to the walk helped to generate some additional walkers.”

When asked what advice she would give to other walk organizers, Shannon replied, “If you want to organize a run/walk make sure you get in touch with someone who has organized one in the past. They have valuable information, tips and do’s and dont’s that will help make your walk a success.”

While this year’s walk was for the family of one person effected by cancer, next year’s walk will be expanded to focus on raising awareness about lung cancer prevention. Shannon would like to help educate the public about the dangers of radon levels in basements, which Cheryl’s doctors believe was the reason that she developed lung cancer.

Next year’s walk will benefit radon research or lung cancer research. Shannon is also considering donating a portion of the proceeds to the local cancer coalition and starting a scholarship or humanitarian award in Cheryl’s name.

How Much Does Your Home Inspector Charge?

We are in tough economic times and people are looking for ways to stretch their dollars and make every dollar count. Home buyers, like everybody else, are looking for a deal. And this entire real estate market is in a major slump right now, which only makes things worse. One third of the agents and one third of the home inspectors across this country have gone out of business and moved on to other lines of work in this last year. In an effort to save a few dollars, many people are forgoing their home inspection and buying a home outright… with no inspection at all.

For a few months now I have been debating with myself whether I should even write on this topic. All you have to do is Google your nearest large city and the words “home inspector” and you can quickly compare the home inspectors in your area. The vast majority of them do not advertise their prices. Why? They force you to call them, knowing you will ask what they charge… then they have a prepared sales pitch that is designed to convince the caller to hire them. They all have a “base price” that is real cheap, in order to spark the caller’s attention. Then, they ask a series of questions such as square footage, year built, and several other things which help them gather important information, but also gets the caller to respond over and over… and places the inspector in the proverbial driver’s seat. The caller is unconsciously committing to the sales pitch, one step at a time. Then, after they add in the extra cost for distance, square footage, age, and other things… they tell the caller their real fee. Problem is… the caller already decided to hire this guy based on his “base price”. The real price is often much higher.

My point here is that you need to shop around, and do not get tricked into hiring an inspector based upon a well designed and executed sales trick. There are some inspectors out there who advertise their rates right on their web sites. They have nothing to hide from you and I recommend you give these inspectors more serious consideration. It is clear they are not trying to hook customers with a sales pitch, and they are not trying to hide anything.

Next, I recommend comparing a few inspectors and see what you are really getting for your money. Most of them have a basic inspection… but then allow you choices based upon your individual needs or desires. Some will offer mold inspections, termite inspections, radon inspections, infrared thermography, and a host of other details, but usually at an additional price for each level of enhancement. Also, take a good look at how long will they really be inside your prospective new home. The vast majority of home inspectors across this country will complete your inspection in about 2 hours. 2-3 hours is the industry norm. Many inspectors will actually do the inspection in 3 hours. A few inspectors take as long as 4 hours. Ask yourself… why is this? Here is the single overriding reason why: MONEY. This allows them to “inspect” at least 2 houses per day. Many inspectors can make between $600 and $1,200 per day when times are good and the market is moving.

What do most Home Inspectors charge? This varies a great deal based on the market and also based on geography. In some areas, home inspectors charge $800 or more per inspection. However, in most areas of the country the average seems to be around $200-$300. Unfortunately, because of the housing market slump of this last year, and also the economic condition in general, there are lots and lots of “inspectors” out there who are charging as little as $99 per home inspection. These jokers are doing three homes per day when they can, so they can still make a tidy income. That will get you a one hour inspection, if you’re lucky. Unfortunately, a lot of home buyers will hire these guys in an effort to save a few hundred dollars. I challenge you this: Go into your crawlspace. Inspect every square foot of the soil, footings, piers, posts, stem walls, and the floor above. Go all the way from corner to every corner. Make notes, take photos, take moisture samples, and deal with the spiders and the dead mice. See how long it takes you to do this. And then ask yourself if you are still willing to hire an inspector that will look at your house in less than three hours. On average, I spend around two hours of every inspection just in the crawlspace. All my inspections take over 5 hours… and my average is around 7 hours. Day before yesterday I inspected a 2,100 square foot house (built in 1991) and it took me nearly nine hours. Why is this? I am thorough. I care about my clients. I inspect every home as though it were being purchased by my daughter. I am not trying to do two homes per day just to maximize income. Never have done two in a day, and I never will. Too easy to confuse the details, or forget some details when writing the reports.

Look real closely at what you are getting. Also, ask this of yourself… “This inspector charges $xyz”. “Am I getting a good value at this cost?”. Realize this: What your inspector charges is a reflection of what your inspector feels his services are worth.

In the counties I serve, most homes sell between $150,000 and $300,000. The average tends to run around $200,000. Most home inspectors charge around $250… of course, some are higher and some are much lower. This means that for an average $250 inspection, the buyer would be paying 0.125% of the price of their home for a professional home inspection. That is, just under one eighth of one percent! Now, let’s put that $250 inspection fee into perspective:

o Cost to replace one natural gas-fired water heater: $700
o Cost to replace one toilet: $450
o Cost to upgrade a substandard electric service entrance and panel: $1,500
o Cost to replace a garbage disposal: $350
o Cost to install a new asphalt shingle roof: $3,500
o Cost to replace an air conditioning unit: $1,200
o Cost to replace five floor joists in crawl space damaged by termites: $1,250
o Cost to replace 8 feet of damaged sill plate: $1,500
o Cost to repair a foundation that has been damaged by tree roots: $8,200

The part that gets me is that many people do not think twice about paying an auto repair shop $80 per hour to fix their car. Yet thousands of people will spend hours “shopping’ for a home inspector who gives them the lowest price. The auto mechanic simply fixes the car. While important, yes… consider that against what is likely the most expensive and longest term investment of your entire life: your house. A good home inspector can identify issues before you purchase… often allowing you to reduce the cost of your purchase by thousands of dollars. A good inspector can even help prevent you from making a colossal mistake by purchasing a house that will end up costing you tens of thousands of dollars. A good inspector allows you to go into this investment with your eyes wide open… giving you a real good idea of things that will need repaired or replaced in the near future. A good inspector will also provide (in their report) valuable home maintenance tips and will also include ideas for reducing your energy consumption.

Best Kitchen Countertop – And the Winner Is?

As with most decisions in remodeling, the “one size fits all” just doesn’t do it. There is no pat answer on which countertop material is best but this article should get you pointed in the right direction. Each countertop material has its own pros and cons so it pays to do your research before you make your final decision and pony-up the dough. Ultimately, it is a matter of personal preference but no matter which countertop choice you make, there are three main considerations that you will need before making your countertop choice: They are: Cost – Design – Utility.

I place these in this order for a reason: Your budget will ultimately determine the material choices you will have. Next is the design: Achieving your design / style goals can usually be achieved at all the various price points. The final choice is utility. These days, durability (like design) can be achieved through all countertop materials. Ok, let’s get started:

Wood: Yes, you heard right “Wood”. Most of us have seen “butcher block” island cabinets of a piece of butcher block incorporated into the countertop, but there is a whole new world of wood countertop solutions if you have the cash. Pricing on these countertops make granite look like a bargain! If you want a “Stand-Out” kitchen, this will most certainly do it.
Cost: Prices (just for the materials range from $100 sq. ft. to $500 sq. ft.!
Design: The choices of wood species are extraordinary: Just to name a few… Cherry, Bamboo, Beech, Black Walnut, Canary, Hickory, Maple, Chestnut, Red Oak, Reclaimed Redwood, Teak, Zebrawood (among others).
Utility: Incredibly, this choice is quite durable. Other than re-oiling the tops every 9 to 12 months or so, there is very little maintenance. Waterproof: One supplier (Craft-Art) categorically states that all of their countertops are “absolutely” waterproof. As well they are stain resistant, food safe, heat resistant and scratch resistant.

Granite: This is currently the most popular countertop on the market. Beautiful, durable and low maintenance sums-up this choice.
Cost: Affordability (or lack thereof) is the main issue with granite as you can easily spend $70 to $150 per square foot depending on the quality and scarcity of the stone. Other factors that determine cost is the thickness of the stone (2 or 3 centimeters widths) as well as the amount of pits and imperfections. There are typically 2 to 3 quality levels depending on which slab yard you go to. This can have a substantial impact on the final cost.
Design: Styles and colors of granite are plentiful. Some estimates are in the 3,000 range. You need only to go to a few of slab yards to see that “the sky is the limit” with regards to available choices.
Utility: Granite is very durable and holds-up well to heat. Although it is important to seal the granite a couple of times a year, overall care and maintenance is relatively minor.

*** Note: There has been (of late) a lot of press about the “radon gas” issue with granite. Most of the findings state that while there are some levels of radon, it does not pose a health threat. Further information is available by going the to the Marble Institute of America website.

Marble: Using Marble in kitchen applications creates a number of issues that may preclude you from making this choice; however it is widely used in Italy (and other European countries) as a standard countertop material.
Cost: The cost for Marble is high – comparable with granite.
Design: There are sufficient colors of Marble to achieve the color and style you are looking for however, it may take more time and effort than with granite.
Utility: Marble holds-up well to heat however it is a highly porous stone. For this reason, it is susceptible to staining etching even if you seal it on a regular basis. As well, this material will change color over time. While some people will appreciate this, most want to have their countertops to look as good in 10 years (shiny & new) as it looks the day they install them.

Cultured Marble: This product is made from crushed marble, resin and pigments (for color). While it is widely for countertops in bathrooms, it is not used in kitchen applications. For this reason, it is not covered in this article.

Limestone: As with Marble, Limestone can be used for kitchen countertops, there comes with it, numerous issues that you need to know up front so you don’t find yourself regretting the choice.
Cost: Typically less expensive than marble or granite but it is still natural stone and can get expensive.
Design: There are fewer choices (compared to granite) however limestone does come in some vibrant blue colors that marble does not. Canada is the main source of limestone in North America.
Utility: While Limestone is highly resistant to humidity, it nonetheless a very porous material that stains easily and can erode over time. Proper sealing is an absolute must and is highly susceptible to erosion from juices, fruits and foods that contain acidic properties.

Quartz: You might recognize the most popular industry names as Cambria, Zodiaq, Silestone or Cesarstone. While these quartz products are appx. 93% natural stone, they are in fact an “engineered stone”. Resin and pigments make up the remaining 7%.
Cost: While Quartz is an engineered product (unlike Granite) it is nonetheless expensive. Prices can reach the price of the lower-end of the granite spectrum.
Design: Due to the fact it is “engineered” you can find a color to meet your needs with little difficulty.
Utility: This engineered fabrication affords extremely high durability however it will chip with high impact or sharp objects falling on it.

Solid Surface: The most commonly known name Corian. Corian is made by DuPont and is a non-porous, engineered material. It has lost some market share over the last few years to granite and quartz however it still finds favor with homeowners who like the “seamless sinks”.
Cost: Pricing for this material is less expensive than granite but will be more expensive than tile.
Design: Corian comes in 130 different colors and 3 different surface types (Satin, Semi Gloss and High Gloss) so there will be no problem finding a color and finish to achieve the style you are looking for.
Utility: Corian is very durable and most stains and spots can be cleaned off with soapy water or an ammonia based cleaner (no window cleaners though). For more stubborn stains, use CLR or Lime Away. It is not recommended to place pots or pans directly from the oven

Tile: This material dates back some 4,000 years so it is safe to say that longevity is something you won’t need to worry about. While it has lost some of its luster (figuratively speaking) it still finds favor in the marketplace.
Cost: Very cost effective for basic tile however custom tile can bring the price-point up significantly.
Design: Literally hundreds of colors and styles to choose from including ceramic, porcelain and granite.
Utility: Very durable and heat resistant however is susceptible to chipping or breakage if heavy or pointed objects dropped on tiles

Stainless Steel:
Cost: Price points for stainless are reasonable however stainless steel comes in different qualities. It pays to go with the better qualities as the less expensive option has a tendency to scratch easier.
Design: Great for contemporary look but best if used in conjunction with another surface so that it does not become too sterile.
Utility: Very heat resistant and durable however will scratch with sharp objects.

Concrete: While not generally known, concrete is becoming a popular choice for kitchens… the counters and sinks are “poured in place” so they can achieve designs and styles not afforded by the other countertop materials. If you have an “irregular” kitchen shape, concrete may be a good choice
Cost: Equal to or more expensive than granite and engineered stone (in most cases) however depending on the style and amount of labor involved, it can get pricy.
Design: Since it is a poured product, you can get very creative with regard to shapes, color and flair.
Utility: Concrete is very porous but can be sealed. This material requires regular maintenance to reduce the chance of staining. Cracks and chipping are also possible if heavy or sharp objects are dropped on the counters.

Laminate: New laminate products have really changed the perception of the old Formica. New designs and an exponential increase in colors and patterns make it a great choice for the lower price point.
Cost: Hands-down the most cost effective counter material on the market today
Design: Multitudes of color and pattern choices.
Utility: Very strong with a high resistance to scratching and staining. Fairly resistant to heat however it can burn if pots or pans are placed on the surface when taken right out of the oven or from the cooktop.